Bold claim: The way 21st-century luxury watches look and feel is long overdue for a radical rethink. Contemporary design in high-end timepieces, according to Marc Newson—the co-creator of the Apple Watch—often feels bland, detached from real artistry, and somewhat unsettling in its priorities. As he prepares to unveil his first premier-level mechanical wristwatch in more than ten years, Newson argues that designers have become too isolated within their craft, chasing technical complexity at the expense of core aesthetic principles.
Newson, a prolific designer based in the UK and of Australian origin, has a storied history collaborating with major brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre on the Atmos clock line, and with Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Montblanc, and Dom Pérignon. His early work, the Lockheed Lounge chair, once shattered auction records by selling for $3.7 million, underscoring his impact on design beyond timepieces.
Ahead of the release of the Ressence TYPE 3 Marc Newson—an collaboration with the renowned Belgian independent watchmaker favored by collectors—Newson spoke with The Business of Fashion. He noted his experience on a watch prize jury: while there isn’t a dearth of design, there is a scarcity of design he personally connects with. He described the industry as currently slow and sluggish, yet he remains hopeful that it will regain momentum.
Ressence, founded in 2010 by designer Benoît Mintiens, operates from Antwerp and has built a devoted, though niche, following. The brand produces roughly 700 watches annually in Switzerland and generates about €8 million in revenue. Mintiens himself comes from a broader background in industrial design, including work in transport and medical sectors before turning to horology. The selling point of Ressence is its distinctive display: time is shown via rotating discs beneath an oil-filled dome, giving the impression of a digital screen rather than a traditional watch.
Newson’s path in watchmaking began with Ikepod, a label known for conceptual design. Ill-fated financial struggles led to its bankruptcy, but the brand was relaunched in 2017 and now sits at a more accessible tier of the luxury market. Looking back, Newson cherishes the creative period with Ikepod, even though the financial outcome was bittersweet and might have altered his career had circumstances been different.
His collaboration with Ressence rekindled his appetite for high-end watch design. He described the partnership as an itch that needed scratching, a desire to explore the design frontiers he finds most engaging.
Between Ikepod and his work with Qantas Airways—where he served as creative director—Newson joined Apple’s design team, contributing to special projects for the Apple Watch. Since its 2015 introduction, the Apple Watch and other smartwatches have dramatically disrupted entry-level Swiss watchmaking. Global exports of inexpensive watches, particularly those under 500 Swiss francs, have declined significantly over the past decade, signaling a seismic shift in consumer behavior.
Despite these trends, Newson believes the mechanical watch market remains fundamentally sound. While export volumes for Swiss watches have fallen, revenues hit record highs in the post-pandemic period and have only started to ease as demand for luxury goods cooled. He emphasizes that the Apple Watch’s global reach has not erased the enduring appeal of traditional mechanical watches.
To move the luxury watch industry forward, Newson advocates for broader design horizons. He observes that many seasoned watchmakers possess extraordinary technical prowess but seem insulated from broader design culture. The industry, in his view, would benefit from cross-pollination with wider design trends and more open engagement with global design discourse.
Ressence stands out for bridging these worlds. Newson notes that watch design has historically lived in a separate cultural space, and Ressence has managed to traverse both realms successfully. He urges younger designers to push beyond conventional boundaries and embrace a more user-centered approach that resonates outside the industry.
The TYPE 3 Marc Newson project began roughly eighteen months ago and reportedly flowed smoothly from concept to completion. The watch measures 45 millimeters and retains Ressence’s signature discs and oil-filled dome, while injecting Newson’s distinctive elements: a streamlined, elliptical case and a color palette of yellow and grey inspired by his Ikepod roots. Newson describes the moment of realization when the collaboration was approved as a bolt of lightning—an instance when a design feels pre-formed and simply awaits its moment to enter the world.
Priced at 46,000 Swiss francs (approximately $59,800), the TYPE 3 Marc Newson reflects the realities of European manufacturing costs and the industry’s ongoing commitment to sustainability and longevity. Newson acknowledges that premium, durable product design often carries higher production costs, but underscores the importance of reducing waste and avoiding landfill.
Now 62, Newson is eager to continue exploring watch design and hinted at further Ressence collaborations. He also teased an upcoming automotive project slated for reveal next year. He envisions projects that touch something deeply personal—an aspect of design that defies easy explanation and invites ongoing conversation about the future of watches and the role of design in luxury.
